I BROKE MY NOSE IN 12 PIECES.
I was tow-surfing at our beachbreak in Brazil. My tow board hit my face, and I was covered in blood … then I blacked out. Two hours later I was in the hospital.
THE PUBLIC HOSPITAL IN BRAZIL IS GNARLY.
People dying in every corner, nobody has a pillow, nobody has a blanket. That’s the rule in Brazil: If you get rescued by public services, you go to the public hospital. I sat in my wetsuit for six hours, shaking.
I HAVE NO LIMITS, IT’S TERRIBLE.
In Tahoe this year, my first time snowboarding, I kept falling. My arm kept dislocating, I could feel I was messing up my body, but I mess up my body all the time, so I thought it was okay. It wasn’t okay. Then I fell and broke my radius bone. I was out for a good month and a half.
I DON’T THINK ABOUT HAVING KIDS.
I don’t want to stop surfing for eight months, and then after, I won’t want to be risking my life. I won’t be able to.
MY DAD’S RUNNING FOR GOVERNOR OF RIO.
He’s a congressman in Brazil. We’re second on the polls. The number one is the current governor.
I NEVER REALLY COMPARE MYSELF TO GUYS.
I’m not really competing with them. I’m doing my own thing with my own limits, and just learning from them. Slowly I think I got respect from the boys.
I’VE HAD PEOPLE SAY THAT I CAN’T EVEN SURF, THAT I SHOULDN’T BE TOW-SURFING.
Just this season, a guy said to me, “Even my grandmother could surf the waves you surf, because you can barely surf.” I was so affected by that.
- I HAD THIS RANDOM GUY COME TO ME UP TO ME AND SAY, “Are you Maya, the girl who surfs big waves?” I said, “Well, I’m Maya, but I only surf big waves sometimes.”
I TRY NOT TO MAKE A WHOLE LOT OF ATTACHMENTS.
I have friends, but it’s pretty hard to be attached to people when you travel so much.
HARD WORK. AND PRACTICE.
It’s really simple. It’s not like some secret formula. It’s just about who’s going to go out and do it.
WHEN YOU’RE A KID, YOU FEEL INVINCIBLE.
It’s part of being 20. I don’t wish to be 20 again.
- THE BEST THING I’VE LEARNED IS TO LET GO, and not grip so hard, and be more open. You learn faster that way. You learn at a better rate.
- INSPIRATION COMES FROM THE HEART and motivation comes from the head. Motivation’s always temporary because it’s coming from the brain. Inspiration is everlasting.
- I’VE MADE SOME PREDICTIONS IN THE PAST in my career and it was always harder when I tried to predict the future.
THINGS ARE GOING TO CHANGE.
The only guarantee that I’ve found in this whole universe is change.
- A LOT OF PEOPLE THINK THAT YOU NEED TO SLOW DOWN WHEN YOU GET OLDER, but I think it’s just the opposite. I’m still learning and getting better.
- BACK THEN, SURFING WAS OKAY IN PARENTS’ EYES, but it wasn’t great. Now that there’s a lot more money involved, people see dollar signs.
NONE OF US WERE GETTING ANYTHING AT 16.
We’d freak out if we got a plane ticket. When you’re looking at dollar signs as a reason to do something, you may or may not make it, but the chances of not having longevity are a lot greater.
- THE ONE THING I FEEL LIKE OUR GENERATION HAD is that all those guys worked hard, and they appreciated what they got.
- THE 12-YEAR-OLD KID at my beachbreak can do an air reverse.
DANE AND JORDY ARE THE YOUNG UP-AND-COMING GUYS ON TOUR.
A lot of kids look up to those guys, I just hope they see that those guys can do it all–they can do the airs, but they can also put it on a rail and turn.
YOU HAVE TO DO A BIG TURN.
It’s the base of our sport, our art, our culture. Go back to Greg Noll, Miki Dora, Dane Kealoha, Occy, and Tom Carroll. If you get away from your roots, it becomes something different.
I COULD’VE SURFED THE REST OF MY LIFE AND NOT LEARNED PATIENCE.
It wasn’t surfing that brought me patience, it was the learning of self that brought me patience, and if I never looked at myself I’d still be wanting to go out and grab things and force it to happen. And that’s just not how it goes down.
SURFING IS ALL ABOUT A FEELING.
You don’t learn thoroughly if you think it through instead of just feeling it.
Dorian Paskowitz is the patriarch of the Paskowitz family, and the author of Surfing and Health.